Free Patterns

Free Pattern: Spring Chicken Crochet Easter Eggs

Hi! It’s my first ever post here on the shiny new Harbour Crochet blog! I will get round to writing a proper introductory sort of post, but in the meantime, here are some free Easter patterns I’ve been working on this week.

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I wrote these patterns to go with the Spring Chicken Easter Egg Crochet Kit that I’ve just released in my Etsy shop (I dye & sell luxury yarn, if you’re unfamiliar). The kit includes a superb set of 7 hand-dyed mini skeins; 3 polystyrene eggs; and the printed patterns. The kit is £14 + p&p – click here to order one. 🙂

If you already have your polystyrene eggs, some DK yarn in a few colours, and a 3mm hook, here are two patterns (for different sized eggs) so you can make your own crochet eggs right away. Scroll all the way down this post to see patterns for 7cm tall and 6cm tall eggs. The patterns are very similar; so you may find some of the instructions a little repetitive. It’s easy enough once you’ve got the hang of the egg-shaping round; that you can go a little freestyle on the other rounds. I’d LOVE to see loads of variations of this pattern, so if you do make some, please share them (Instagram is great for this! Just tag me @harbourcrochet.)

Disclaimer:
These patterns are the intellectual property of Katy Stevens. Please do not distribute. You are welcome to sell your finished items, but please credit the pattern to Harbour Crochet; and I’d be really grateful if you could refer any interested parties here, or to the Harbour Crochet Etsy shop. Thanks! I hope you enjoy using this pattern. 

Skills used (UK TERMS):
chain (ch)
double crochet (dc)
half treble crochet (htr)
treble crochet (tr)
double treble (dtr)
slip stitch
puff stitch (the one I use in this pattern is not standard; but I’ll walk you through it!)
fastening off
working into back loops only

Big Egg (7cm)

To​ ​begin:
Chain 4 and slip stitch into the first chain to join into a ring.

Round​ 1​ (treble crochet)
Chain 3 (this counts as your first treble), then work 11tr into the ring​ ​and​ ​join​​ with​​ a​ ​slip stitch.​ ​ Fasten​ ​ off.​ ​ [12]

Round 2 (puff stitch variation)
This round uses a smaller variation of the puff stitch. Pick any stitch, and use your hook to draw a strand of your new colour through the stitch. Chain 1 to secure. Pull the loop currently on your hook a little taller/looser, then yarn over; insert your hook into the same stitch; yarn over again; and draw it back through the stitch. (3 loops on hook.) Yarn over again, and draw through another loop in the same way. You should now have 5 loops on your hook. Yarn over again, then pull it through all 5 of the pre-existing loops. Now there should be 1 loop on your hook. Chain 1, then work one of these puff stitches into each of the 11 remaining stitches, with a chain between each puff. Join with a slip stitch when you complete the round. Fasten off. You should have a round comprising of 12 puff stitches, with a chain space between each one. [24*]

Round 3 (forming the egg shape)
*In this round, please treat each chain space as a stitch; so your starting “stitch count” is 24. 

Draw a loop of your new colour through any stitch. Chain 2 (counts as a dc). Work a dc into the same space, then 1dc into each of the next 2 stitches. Then: 2dc, 1dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc, 1dc, 2dc, htr, tr, 2tr, 2dtr, 2dtr, 2tr, tr, htr. Join to your first stitch of the round with a slip stitch, and fasten off. [34]

Round 5 (double crochet)
Draw a loop of your new colour through any stitch, ch2, and then work a dc into each of the remaining stitches. Join to your first stitch of the round with a slip stitch, and fasten off. [34]

Round 6 (double crochet & chain spaces)
Draw a loop of your new colour through any stitch. Chain 3, then dc into each remaining stitch with a chain in between. Join the round with a slip stitch; and fasten off. [34]

Round 7 (treble crochet)
Draw a loop of your new colour through any chain space. Chain 3, then work a treble into each remaining chain space. Join the round with a slip stitch; and fasten off. [34]

Round 8 (double crochet)
Draw a loop of your new colour through the stitch at the centre of the top of your egg. (If you ensure that your starting point for this round is the same for both “hemispheres”, it’ll make things easier when it’s time to line up your egg halves for joining.) Chain 2 (counts as a dc), then work​ ​a dc into each remaining stitch. Join​​ to​ the​ start​ of​ your​ round​​ with​ a slip​​ stitch.​​ Fasten​ off​ (but note;​ if​​ you’re​ on​ your​ second​ hemisphere:​ do​​ not​ snip​ your​ yarn​ just yet!)

Repeat all stages to make the second half of your egg; then, on completing your final round, you can immediately begin to slip​ stitch​ the​ two​ halves​​ together​ (without​ breaking​ your yarn). I worked into the back loops only which created a pleasing neatly-stitched join. You can stitch up about 2/3 of the way before popping​ the​ ​polystyrene egg​ in​ and​ joining​ the​ rest.

You’ll be pleased to hear that it is not essential to weave in all the ends. Thank goodness! Simply trim them to 1 inch or so, and leave them. They are very unlikely to work their way through and become visible, but if they do, you can poke them back under the surface of the crochet.

The​​ final​ tail​ end of yarn,​​ once​ you’ve fastened​​ off​​ and snipped,​ can​ be​​ woven underneath​ the​​ layer of​​ crochet​​ using a darning​ needle. You​​ can​ make​ a​ hanging loop​ for​​ your​ egg, if you like -​​ perhaps​ ​using​ a contrasting colour yarn or a piece of ribbon or whatever you’ve got handy, in your obscenely bulging hoard of unnecessary haberdashery trimmings that you just had to buy (or is that just me?!). Then sit back and admire your handiwork!

Little Egg (6cm)

To​ ​begin:
Chain 4 and slip stitch into the first chain to join into a ring.

Round​ 1​ (treble crochet)
Chain 3 (this counts as your first treble), then work 11tr into the ring​ ​and​ ​join​​ with​​ a​ ​slip stitch.​ ​ Fasten​ ​ off.​ ​ [12]

Round 2 (puff stitch variation)
This round uses a smaller variation of the puff stitch. Pick any stitch, and use your hook to draw a strand of your new colour through the stitch. Chain 1 to secure. Pull the loop currently on your hook a little taller/looser, then yarn over; insert your hook into the same stitch; yarn over again; and draw it back through the stitch. (3 loops on hook.) Yarn over again, and draw through another loop in the same way. You should now have 5 loops on your hook. Yarn over again, then pull it through all 5 of the pre-existing loops. Now there should be 1 loop on your hook. Chain 1, then work one of these puff stitches into each of the 11 remaining stitches, with a chain between each puff. Join with a slip stitch when you complete the round. Fasten off. You should have a round comprising of 12 puff stitches, with a chain space between each one.

Round 3 (treble crochet)
Draw a loop of your new colour through any chain space between puff stitches. Ch3 (counts as a treble), and then work another tr into the same space. Work 2tr into each of the remaining chain spaces. Join to your first stitch of the round with a slip stitch, and fasten off. [24]

Round 4 (double crochet & chain spaces)
Draw a loop of your new colour through any stitch. Chain 3, then dc into each remaining stitch with a chain in between. Join the round with a slip stitch; and fasten off. [24]

Round 5 (forming the egg shape)
Draw a loop of your new colour through any stitch. Chain 2 (counts as a dc). Work a dc into the same space, then 1dc into each of the next 2 stitches. Then: 2dc, 1dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc, 1dc, 2dc, htr, tr, 2tr, 2dtr, 2dtr, 2tr, tr, htr. Join to your first stitch of the round with a slip stitch, and fasten off. [34]

Round 6 (double crochet)
Draw a loop of your new colour through the stitch at the centre of the top of your egg. If you ensure that your starting point for this round is the same for both “hemispheres”, it’ll make things easier when it’s time to line up your egg halves for joining. Chain 2, then work​ ​a dc​ into​ ​each​ of the​ ​remaining​​ ​stitches. Join​​ to​ the​ start​ of​ your​ round​​ with​ a slip​​ stitch.​​ Fasten​ off​ (but note;​ if​​ you’re​ on​ your​ second​ hemisphere:​ do​​ not​ snip​ your​ yarn​ just yet!) 

Repeat all stages to make the second half of your egg; then, on completing your final round, you can immediately begin to slip​ stitch​ the​ two​ halves​​ together​ (without​ breaking​ your yarn). I worked into the back loops only which created a pleasing neatly-stitched join. You can stitch up about 2/3 of the way before popping​ the​ ​polystyrene egg​ in​ and​ joining​ the​ rest.

Check out the final stage of the “Big Egg” pattern above, if you’d like more info on how to finish your egg.

 

Here’s another look at them! I love them – I hope you do too.

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The eagle eyed reader may spot that the egg on the left in this photo is made with a slight variation on the pattern. It’s such an adaptable pattern, I can’t wait to see lots of different takes on it. Please do feel free to share your makes – and tag me @harbourcrochet on Insta – I’d love to see! There’s also a Facebook group called Harbour Crochet Community, hopefully see you there.

Katy 

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2 thoughts on “Free Pattern: Spring Chicken Crochet Easter Eggs”

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